While
France wasn't the first country to produce wine, the French
were the first to give modern winemaking a kind of quality control
assurance. French wine regions have become "brands"
in themselves, such as Sancerre, Chablis, Champagne, Muscadet,
Beaujolais, Bordeaux (or Claret), Nuits St. George, etc, because
of the AC. France invented the Appellation Controlee system-
a set of rules and regulations to be adhered by winemakers and
grape growers, with the aim of guaranteeing quality and creating
a recognizable brand name that consumers can trust. While France
has lost considerable market share, particularly to Australian
and Chilean wines, France hasn't lost its sparkle and many lesser
- known wine regions such as the Languedoc are producing smashing
wines.
Champagne
Champagne is the ultimate prestige wine. It represents celebration,
and success. When there’s an important event like a wedding,
christening, birthday, retirement party, etc, “real”
champagne is nearly always chosen. The region of Champagne has
done the most successful job of branding in the world of wine.
While other “Champenoise method” wines are made
elsewhere, such as Cava in Spain, Franciacorta in Italy and
“Traditional method” sparklers, everywhere from
New Zealand to California, on a special occasion, we still seem
to opt for Champagne. Champagne is made in the northeast of
France around the towns of Reims and Épernay. The three
classic grapes used to make Champagne are a Cuvée (blend)
of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Blanc de Blanc
means the Champagne is made with only Chardonnay and Blanc de
Noirs indicates the wine has been made from all black grapes
(Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier). Top crème de la crème
Champagne brands include Krug, Veuve Clicquot (the “widow”),
Bollinger (James Bond always had a bottle of “Bolly”
on hand), Pol Roger (Winston Churchill’s favorite), and
Louis Roederer (whose “Cristal” champagne is one
of the most expensive in the world, adored both by Rap stars
and heads of state).
Burgundy
Burgundy is one of the loveliest wine regions to visit in France.
Picturesque, medieval villages and neat patchwork vineyards
abound. Sub-regions and towns have themselves essentially become
brands such as Chablis, Mâcon, Pouilly-Fuissé,
Gevrey-Chambertin, etc. Burgundy (Bourgogne) is divided into
sub-regions, from north to south being: Chablis, the Côte
de Nuits & Côte de Beaune (together, the two form
the heart of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or), Côte
Chalonnaise, the Mâconnais and finally, Beaujolais. The
most famous red wines are the “Crus” such as La
Tâche & Romanée –Conti (Vosne –Romanée),
Grands Échezeaux (Flagey- Échezeaux) and Clos
de la Roche (Morey-St-Denis). Prestigious white wines from Burgundy
include: Corton-Charlemagne (Ladoix-Serrigny) and le Montrachet
(Chassagne-Montrachet). Other famed wines include Meursault
and Puligny-Montrachet (white) and Volnay, Santenay, Pommard
and Auxey-Duresses (red). The main grapes used in Burgundy are
Chardonnay for whites (such as Chablis) and Pinot Noir for reds.
In Beaujolais, the region famous for its “Nouveau Beaujolais”
(new young wine), the grape used is Gamay and produces light,
fruity wines in communes such as Moulin-à-Vent, Brouilly
and Julienas. Big brands in the Côte d’Or (who are
the wine merchants, negociants, of Beaune) include: Louis Latour,
Joseph Drouhin, Bouchard Père & Fils and Louis Jadot.
Bordeaux
The name Bordeaux evokes images of beautiful Chateaux and expensive
wines, both of which are true. Bordeaux makes some of the most
sought after wines in the world such as Mouton-Rothschild, Château
Latour and Château Margaux. The region has a long winemaking
history, with scribblings of the first wine critic, Pliny, dating
back to AD 77. The real history making began in 1855 when Bordeaux
was the first wine region to lay boundaries and classifications
of their wines, creating the groundwork for the AC system, used
all over France today and emulated in all other wine producing
countries. The Gironde river flows inland from the Atlantic,
splitting in two (called the Garonne and the Dordogne) around
the town of Lamarque. Between the two rivers is a white wine
region called “Entre deux Mers” (“between
two seas”), and delicious grassy whites are made from
Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. West of the Gironde lie
the important red wine ACs of (from north to south): St- Éstephe,
Pauillac, St-Julien, and Margaux. The wines here are dominated
by Cabernet Sauvigon and blended with Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
Southeast, on the “right bank”, are the important
wines of St Emilion and Pomerol. In Pomero, you find the exquisite
winery of Château Petrus (the most expensive wine in the
world). On the Right bank, wines are dominated by merlot as
opposed to Cab Sauv. Further south, west of the Garonne, the
important sweet wines of Sauternes are produced, Château
d’Yquem being the most highly regarded.
Rhone
The gorgeous town of Avignon lies at the southern end of the
famed Rhône wine region. The Rhône is divided into
“northern” and “southern” sub-categories.
The northern Rhône produces nearly all red wine (apart
from Condrieu, which makes famous white wines from the Viognier
grape), from the spicy Syrah varietal. The great Rhône
communes include Côte Rôtie (Marcel Guigal being
the most famed producer), St-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, and Cornas.
The southern Rhône’s most famous wine has got to
be Châteauneuf-du-Pape, located just north of Avignon
and named after the “Pope’s new castle” (referring
to the relocation of the Papal court to Avignon in the 14th
century). Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines are mainly red and
extremely rich, made with Syrah and up to 13 permitted grape
varietals, which tend to be limited to Grenache and Mourvèdre
but can include Terret Noir, Picpoul Noir, Cinsault and Counoise.
Other top quality ACs in southern Rhône are Gigondas,
Cairanne and Vaqueyras (for reds), Tavel and Lirac (for Rosés)
and Rasteau and Beaumes-de-Venise (for sweet “Vin Doux
Naturels” and dessert Muscats). Famed producers of the
south include Château de Beaucastel and Château
de Saint Cosme.
Languedoc, Provence and Southern France
While some wine producers who enjoy being located in leading
ACs like Chablis, Margaux and Champagne and have become complacent,
depending on the brand to sell inferior wines, producers in
the south of France have been innovating. Languedoc, particularly,
has received attention for its “flying winemakers”
(consultants who come in from abroad, bringing new techniques
and viticultural advice). Many wineries have realized the importance
of “Varietal Branding” (putting the name of a grape
in the bottle, such as Chardonnay” or “Cabernet
Sauvignon”) as France has lost market share to producers
in Chile and Australia who have capitalized on this already.
Languedoc is seen as a good value for money region, and excellent
wines are being produced using the traditional grapes- Viognier,
Rousanne and Marsanne (for whites); Grenache, Mourvedre, Carignan,
Syrah and Cinsault (for reds) and Muscats (for sweeties). St
Chinian, Corbieres, Minervois and Faugères are great
sources of inexpensive, top quality reds. Lovely sparkling wines
and still whites come from Limoux. Rivesaltes is a village well
known for its dessert wines. The best wines from Provence are
their Rosés (made of Grenache), which perfectly accompany
the delicious Mediterranean cuisine and weather.
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